Eδω βρηκα ενα λινκ που περιεχει κατα τη γνωμη μου τις πιο χρησιμες πληροφοριες για την Ασημοκολληση.
https://www.silverpetal.org.uk/silver-soldering/
Η απαντηση στο ερωτημα εαν θα πρεπει να υπαρχει ενα ελαχιστο κενο μεταξυ των επιφανειων που θα κολληθουν ειναι οχι, δεν πρεπει να υπαρχει κανενα κενο (tip no. 1)
Καποια tips απο το παραπανω λινκ:
1 Joints must be touching. Solder doesn’t jump across gaps. The most common gap problem has to be jump rings. I’m sure you’ve had times when the solder just runs away from the join and around the jump ring. This is often because there’s a gap.
2 Joints must be clean, free from grease, pickle, buffing compound, etc. this brings us to the next point;
3 Work cleanly . Get in to the habit of pickling, rinsing and drying after soldering each join or annealing metals. This is a mistake I see all the time in the studio. If you pickle your work solely because you have been told to β then it’s time to research and understand the reasons for yourself!
4 Flux must be used, no flux = no join!
5 Pieces being soldered must be equally hot, heat larger components first to get them to temperature ready to equal any smaller pieces. It’s easy to get drawn in to the join. The heat will be drained from the join area until other areas of the work are also hot. Try to see the bigger picture and consider the heat conducting properties of the metals. Developing an empathy with the materials you are using will really improve your skills.
6 Keep the torch moving around the metal to ensure smaller or thinner parts aren’t melted away. It’s dangerous β me saying this!! I often see ‛mad’ and frenetic torch swinging as a result. Keep the torch moving by all means. But you are not stirring paint! A torch swinging wildly β several inches from side to side will allow a small piece of metal to cool with each pass. This will mean that the metal takes much longer than it should to get hot. So you could just be burning flux and not effectively making a join.
7 If the silver solder rolls in to a ball and just sits there it has reached temperature long before the metals to be joined β keep heating, moving the torch and aiming the heat around the rest of the metals.
8 Try and use the correct amount of silver solder for the join. Easy to say I know. Really this just comes with experience.
9 Always provide an air hole when making enclosed hollow items (like a ball) This is important, if steam is trapped inside the item it may explode when heated.
10 Soldering (and annealing) may be easier in a dimly lit area so the colour of the metal can be seen as it gets hotter.
11 Take time to set up the work to be soldered, sometimes work needs skilful ‛propping up’ before it can be joined. Often a 30 second join can need 10 minutes of fiddling and setting up. It’ll be worth it β always try to set up so you have your hands free to add solder and hold the torch. It’s almost impossible to hold pieces together with your hands, keep them steady and solder at the same time.
12 Be aware that fire bricks, tweezers, binding wire, steel mesh or other devices used to hold the metal can also absorb the heat and will alter the length of time the metal needs to get to temperature. This can often result in flux being burned away before the metal is hot enough for the solder to run. This is ‛schoolboy error’ number 1! Often done by some of the most experienced. Learn to really look at what you are doing β assess and see the bigger picture.
13 Use an air brick or a soldering wig to lift large pieces of sheet off the bricks β especially if soldering proportionally small pieces onto the surface.
14 If the metal is taking an excessive length of time to solder then it is worth stopping, pickling and starting again. Ask for advice or assess why it went wrong, if possible before a second attempt!
15 If silver has become excessively hot whilst soldering allow it to cool for a few seconds before quenching β sometimes it ‛shocks’ the structure of the metal, making it brittle if quenched immediately. This can even result in cracks occurring in the metal. It is possible to solder the cracks back up but it can still be a real disaster if it happens. Silver is delicate when it is hot so be mindful of this. Copper isn’t affected.
Silver soldering is obviously a real skill that can take years to perfect and understand. The most important thing to remember is that all the above pesky problems have happened to all of us at some point so whatever you do;
Don’t give up!
++++++++++
Eπισης βλεπουμε οτι υπαρχουν και διαφορετικες μεθοδοι που μπορουν να χρησιμοποιηθουν για την ασημοκολληση.
Soldering methods:
https://www.silverpetal.org.uk/silver-soldering/
Η απαντηση στο ερωτημα εαν θα πρεπει να υπαρχει ενα ελαχιστο κενο μεταξυ των επιφανειων που θα κολληθουν ειναι οχι, δεν πρεπει να υπαρχει κανενα κενο (tip no. 1)
Καποια tips απο το παραπανω λινκ:
1 Joints must be touching. Solder doesn’t jump across gaps. The most common gap problem has to be jump rings. I’m sure you’ve had times when the solder just runs away from the join and around the jump ring. This is often because there’s a gap.
2 Joints must be clean, free from grease, pickle, buffing compound, etc. this brings us to the next point;
3 Work cleanly . Get in to the habit of pickling, rinsing and drying after soldering each join or annealing metals. This is a mistake I see all the time in the studio. If you pickle your work solely because you have been told to β then it’s time to research and understand the reasons for yourself!
4 Flux must be used, no flux = no join!
5 Pieces being soldered must be equally hot, heat larger components first to get them to temperature ready to equal any smaller pieces. It’s easy to get drawn in to the join. The heat will be drained from the join area until other areas of the work are also hot. Try to see the bigger picture and consider the heat conducting properties of the metals. Developing an empathy with the materials you are using will really improve your skills.
6 Keep the torch moving around the metal to ensure smaller or thinner parts aren’t melted away. It’s dangerous β me saying this!! I often see ‛mad’ and frenetic torch swinging as a result. Keep the torch moving by all means. But you are not stirring paint! A torch swinging wildly β several inches from side to side will allow a small piece of metal to cool with each pass. This will mean that the metal takes much longer than it should to get hot. So you could just be burning flux and not effectively making a join.
7 If the silver solder rolls in to a ball and just sits there it has reached temperature long before the metals to be joined β keep heating, moving the torch and aiming the heat around the rest of the metals.
8 Try and use the correct amount of silver solder for the join. Easy to say I know. Really this just comes with experience.
9 Always provide an air hole when making enclosed hollow items (like a ball) This is important, if steam is trapped inside the item it may explode when heated.
10 Soldering (and annealing) may be easier in a dimly lit area so the colour of the metal can be seen as it gets hotter.
11 Take time to set up the work to be soldered, sometimes work needs skilful ‛propping up’ before it can be joined. Often a 30 second join can need 10 minutes of fiddling and setting up. It’ll be worth it β always try to set up so you have your hands free to add solder and hold the torch. It’s almost impossible to hold pieces together with your hands, keep them steady and solder at the same time.
12 Be aware that fire bricks, tweezers, binding wire, steel mesh or other devices used to hold the metal can also absorb the heat and will alter the length of time the metal needs to get to temperature. This can often result in flux being burned away before the metal is hot enough for the solder to run. This is ‛schoolboy error’ number 1! Often done by some of the most experienced. Learn to really look at what you are doing β assess and see the bigger picture.
13 Use an air brick or a soldering wig to lift large pieces of sheet off the bricks β especially if soldering proportionally small pieces onto the surface.
14 If the metal is taking an excessive length of time to solder then it is worth stopping, pickling and starting again. Ask for advice or assess why it went wrong, if possible before a second attempt!
15 If silver has become excessively hot whilst soldering allow it to cool for a few seconds before quenching β sometimes it ‛shocks’ the structure of the metal, making it brittle if quenched immediately. This can even result in cracks occurring in the metal. It is possible to solder the cracks back up but it can still be a real disaster if it happens. Silver is delicate when it is hot so be mindful of this. Copper isn’t affected.
Silver soldering is obviously a real skill that can take years to perfect and understand. The most important thing to remember is that all the above pesky problems have happened to all of us at some point so whatever you do;
Don’t give up!
++++++++++
Eπισης βλεπουμε οτι υπαρχουν και διαφορετικες μεθοδοι που μπορουν να χρησιμοποιηθουν για την ασημοκολληση.
Soldering methods:
- Pallions - small pieces of solder are placed directly over the join with tweezers, these melt when the metal reaches temperature. It is suitable for most types of work.
- Sweat soldering - sometimes called tinning, this involves melting pallions of solder on to one piece of metal at a time. It is good for soldering flat pieces of metal of different sizes on top of each other.
- Pick and probe - this involves picking up small pallions of solder on the end of a probe or a component by using flux. This method can be tricky for beginners.
- Stick - this method involves holding a length of solder in lockable tweezers and touching it on to the surface of the metal when it has reached soldering temperature. It is good for soldering large joins but it does need good judgement of the soldering temperatures of metals.
- Paste - this method uses pre-made specially manufactured solder and flux already mixed together in to a paste, dispensed out of a syringe on to the work before heating. It is fairly expensive but good for small and intricate work.
