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Πολύπριζο Νο 2
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<blockquote data-quote="prooptiki" data-source="post: 1237569" data-attributes="member: 576"><p><strong>Re: Πολύπριζο Νο 2. Argi είσαι σπίτι; <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></strong></p><p></p><p>Αυτό ακολούθησα! Τώρα για διαφορές πριν και μετά...δεν μπορώ να πω!</p><p><img src="http://www.lampizator.eu/AC%20FILTER/SILK/silk220.JPG" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Comments:</p><p></p><p>C1 = any size from 0,1 to 0,22 uF / 250 V x rated or 630 V non-x rated. Soldered directly to IEC socket.</p><p>L4 - finger type ferrite rod, 10 wire turns. 2,5 mm solid copper wire (green/yellow stripes). Tinted copper ends.</p><p>L1 - ferrite ring, preferrably 3001 material. From C1 to L1 - wires tightly twisted (2,5 mm solid core).</p><p>L1 Winding: two wires wound tightly around core together 3 1/2 times) (not like on the drawing, but both wires side by side).</p><p>L2 and L3 - finger sized ferrite rods - 3 turns of each wire. OMIT (skip) these for amplifier outlets.</p><p>C3, C4 - 0,01 uF (10nF) X or Y rated foil caps (wima is very good). or 630 V non x rated.</p><p>MOV - 275 or better 300 V DC, biggest energy you can find. (big and thick look is a good sign). MOV directly on the AC outlet.</p><p>Earth continuity switch: put in on all outlets except one, which must be allways in use (be it an amp or mono amp).</p><p>Everywhere possible the N-L wires should be twisted.</p><p></p><p>If making more than 1 outlet, the C1 and L4 are common. Everything else duplicate.</p><p>remember to solder-tin all copper ends to prevent corrosion. Use tons of hot melt glue to secure everything.</p><p></p><p>I recommend at least 24 hr burn in and break in under real (or much bigger) load before critical evaluation. </p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.lampizator.eu/AC%20FILTER/SILK/SILK.HTML" target="_blank">http://www.lampizator.eu/AC FILTER/SILK/SILK.HTML</a></p><p><a href="http://www.lampizator.eu/AC%20FILTER/SILK/FILTER.HTML" target="_blank">http://www.lampizator.eu/AC FILTER/SILK/FILTER.HTML</a></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="prooptiki, post: 1237569, member: 576"] [b]Re: Πολύπριζο Νο 2. Argi είσαι σπίτι; :)[/b] Αυτό ακολούθησα! Τώρα για διαφορές πριν και μετά...δεν μπορώ να πω! [IMG]http://www.lampizator.eu/AC%20FILTER/SILK/silk220.JPG[/IMG] Comments: C1 = any size from 0,1 to 0,22 uF / 250 V x rated or 630 V non-x rated. Soldered directly to IEC socket. L4 - finger type ferrite rod, 10 wire turns. 2,5 mm solid copper wire (green/yellow stripes). Tinted copper ends. L1 - ferrite ring, preferrably 3001 material. From C1 to L1 - wires tightly twisted (2,5 mm solid core). L1 Winding: two wires wound tightly around core together 3 1/2 times) (not like on the drawing, but both wires side by side). L2 and L3 - finger sized ferrite rods - 3 turns of each wire. OMIT (skip) these for amplifier outlets. C3, C4 - 0,01 uF (10nF) X or Y rated foil caps (wima is very good). or 630 V non x rated. MOV - 275 or better 300 V DC, biggest energy you can find. (big and thick look is a good sign). MOV directly on the AC outlet. Earth continuity switch: put in on all outlets except one, which must be allways in use (be it an amp or mono amp). Everywhere possible the N-L wires should be twisted. If making more than 1 outlet, the C1 and L4 are common. Everything else duplicate. remember to solder-tin all copper ends to prevent corrosion. Use tons of hot melt glue to secure everything. I recommend at least 24 hr burn in and break in under real (or much bigger) load before critical evaluation. [url]http://www.lampizator.eu/AC%20FILTER/SILK/SILK.HTML[/url] [url]http://www.lampizator.eu/AC%20FILTER/SILK/FILTER.HTML[/url] [/QUOTE]
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