Re: LG 50PG6000 - Σκοράρει απ' ευθείας!
Here it all comes. First bits are copy-pasted from above, as it's the same:
- Picture Mode: Expert1
- Contrast: 100
- Brightness: 66
- Sharpness: 29 (but taste applies here, doesn't seem to have impact on colour behaviour)
- Colour: 50
- Tint: 0
Expert control (only relevant and changed-from-0 values are mentioned) :
- Fresh contrast: OFF
- Gamma: Medium
- Black Level: Low
- White Balance: Warm
- Red contrast: -11
- Green contrast: -2
- Blue contrast: -4
- Red brightness: 5
- Green brightness: 5
- Blue brightness: 13
Changed two bits in Colour Management System, but maybe I'll do more here some other time:
- Red Colour: -1
- Green Colour: -1
Rest is at 0, of course. This gave some good feedback in the CIE diagram, but maybe I'll work on this a bit more in the future. Or not (likely ).
These results give a decently close match to the reference luminance graph, have an average gamma of just over 2.2 (lines touch each other almost) and the RGB levels circle around 100%.
LET ME MAKE TWO STATEMENTS BEFORE THIS GOES OUT OF CONTROL. PLEASE READ THIS FIRST BEFORE READING THE VALUES AND DOING THE "OH NO TOO EXTREME!!!" TYPE OF POST!
1) 100% contrast. As explained above, this is nothing to be worried about. In my opinion there should not even be a contrast slider on a good screen. It's almost as if you get a car, which is optimized for driving on 3 wheels, and then add a switch so you can drive on less wheels. Doesn't make the driving better, but I guess it looks good in the brochure.
Now I understand there will be tons of people with all kinds of statements wanting to prove me wrong and saying I'm full of crock. Whatever. I don't care, so don't even bother typing it. There is a very good reason that Eizo screens (widely used by pro-photographers for image processing) don't have a contrast slider. I've described it earlier in the post. Do with it what you want.
If you apply these settings on a fresh screen, you'll of course have more visible retention initially. Run in the screen with lower settings if it bothers you.
2) Some of the values deviate a lot from the others and you might think they even conflict. That could be, but don't forget that the "middle ground" is just something that is the standard setting in the circuitry. I picked what gave good results when measuring and this was confirmed when looking at some video stuff.
Oh yeah, for the stat freaks: I generated this with my Monaco Optix XR colorimeter, the DTP-94, which is in general considered to be a very good device. The software I used was the HCFR application, 2.0.1 and their calibration dvd, version 2.0.0 (not that it really matters, it's just a couple of coloured squares ).
Feel free to ask me more if you want.